|> Engine, Fuel and Controls|
Kit Building: Engine (and related Power Section components)
Part way through the build of this Challenger, we decided to upgrade her to a 582engine. C-IJBN has a 503, so this will give us one of each for demos to customers so they can decide what is right for them.
I also have a bit of a fly fishing habit, and some of my favourite lakes are quite high and quite small, so with all that extra horsepower, the 582 affords a bit more jump in tight spots: density altitude affects effective engine horsepower, and wing and propeller performance.
Part way through completion of my fuselage, Turbulence Aviation stopped making their 15 Gallon fiberglass fuel tanks. Thankfully, we now have a very nice (and lower cost!) 17 US Gallon welded aluminum fuel tank, so I am installing that instead. That extra 2 gallons is about 30 minutes more range in a Challenger!
The installation is very straightforward and the directions are quite good but one can never have too many close ups!. A customer and fellow builder is also installing one of these tanks and is ahead of me, so I've included a few of his photos as well a few of our own.
Water Heater and Ducting
We're using the most popular aftermarket throttles available for the Challenger. They are made in St. Albert by Aero Controls and many Challengers have them. We haven't sold a kit yet without them, and they are a bargain at under $300 including the mounting plates and all cables.
If you're building a 503 Challenger, you can ignore this part - your supplied wooden GSC prop is just the right thickness for the supplied bolts.
If you're using a two blade adjustable warp Drive Propeller on a 503, or building a 582 Challenger, when you get to installing your propeller, you will discover that the supplied bolts are too long for the Warp Drive Hub. Folks who have bought 582 kits from ChallengerWest - we'll be shipping you sufficient extra washers for your kits.
Forget about trying to find perfect length bolts at your favourite aircraft supply store: While AN5H-27A is about the length required for the Warp Drive hubs, and has a drilled head for safety wire, that bolt has a 24 pitch thread - which won't work in the Quad City Hub, which takes an 18 pitch thread. Use the supplied bolts and the following official remedy, provided for registered owners, on the builder support page at National Ultralight's web site at: http://www.challenger.ca/support/manual_building.html
Do not under any circumstances even think of grinding or cutting your AN prop bolts to length - these are hardened and tempered bolts, and as grinding and cutting typically creates a lot of heat unless done properly, you could badly alter the properties of these bolts. You do not want a de-tempered bolt sheering off in your prop hub when you torque it - or worse, in flight!
Radiator and Louvres
I'm almost done! Pictures soon!
I can hear it yelling to get out of the box and onto the airplane! Pictures soon!
Starter and Housing
The starter housing needs to be cutaway to fit on a 582. What a job! I did mine on the mill because I have one, and because I was way too lazy to use a hacksaw.
Forget using lexan for the cover rather than bending some aluminum. If the lexan cracks or breaks, the bolts will work loose, which may cause the housing to move, thereby potentially engaging the starter drive on the ring gear and badly impacting things inside the engine! Far better to bend up the aluminum plate to make a cover.
The Fine Print - Caution
Ideas, illustrations and photos are the author's own
work and are for information only.